Hey Florian,
thank you for the instructions and pictures. I could easily follow them. The only things I can´t recognize are the four cables in R (big red), first a (small orange), second a (small yellow) and b (big orange). I think two of them are from the ring system. But I can´t figure out, where the other two come from. Could you please tell me which cables go in these four ports?
See my current configuration in the picture. I have 2 red cables. I think those are Bus+? One blue at the bottom(guess Bus- ?) And one black that goes in „R“. So i would try this Configuration:
K: yellow Nuki opener cable
K: bridge from a
R: black cable that comes from the Ring System
a: Bridge to second K
a: The both two red cables from the ring system
b: blue cable from the ring system
So you think that‘s right?
Hey there,
installing and setup of the BFT 200 in combination with RSR-200 relais worked like a charm.
My question is now to go for the next level → doorbell supression.
The BFT 200 has a speaker connected with + and - to the board. I guess the Opener “interrupts” the speaker as long as the “ring to open” is activated. But how does it work? Is ther a voltage on the red line during this “active” phase that could be used to toggela relais or something else?
Any ideas on how to “create” the door bell supression with the Elcom BFT 200 or Bus systems?
Hi Jean,
did I understand you correctly that the red114y only let you open the door manually and for ring detection/ring to open you need the BSR200 in addition? May I ask what you need the BVM100 for in your setup?
Many thanks,
Steven
Hi Steven,
Yep, my intercom BVM100 is one of the “Old” one … if doesn’t have any slot for relay and needs to be called (and the headset hanged) for sending any open instruction, this is why I had to use the two relays (namely the BSR200 which detects the ring and send the signal to the opener and the red114 which can send the bus open signal without hanging the handset). The red114 allows to send the opening signal or ring to open instruction without operation on the headset too.
The BVM100 is just the regular video intercom.
Hope that helps.
Cheers
Jean
Hi @gizmo and all the others,
many thanks for your good hints and advices so far. I would highly appreciate I brief wrap up before I finally start my ‘project’:
I have the BVF-210 WS installed - pictures from the inside you find attached. Unfortunately the ports differ to the BVF-510.
I might need the RED114Y. But how do I have to connect it since BVF-210 does not have the XX (i2Bus) ports. Do I need any additional components or is the RED114Y sufficient to make door opening and ring to open work?
It would be amazing if someone could provide me with a simple list/plan which cable i have to connect where.
Many thanks in advance,
Steven
Hallo Florian,
ich habe die BFT210 und bei mir ist schon ein RSR210 verbaut, weil ich einen Funkgong angeschlossen habe. Wie kann ich den Opener jetzt daran anschließen? Wurde hier irgendwie nicht schlau daraus, sorry! Kannst du es. It erklären?
Gruß, Alex
Moin Alex,
Also ich glaube das hier fasst den ganzen Thread gut zusammen:
Da sind alle relevanten Posts drin mit Bildern und Verkabelung. Schaus dir mal an, ob du daraus schlau wirst, wenn nicht müsstest du mal ein Bild machen und anschließend schauen wir, dass du dein Nuki angeschlossen bekommst.
Moin Alex,
So I think this sums up the whole thread nicely:
There are all the relevant posts in there with pictures and wiring. Take a look if you can figure it out, if not you have to take a picture and then we’ll see that you get your Nuki connected.
I’m also interested in the Nuki System, but have the REK221Y.
From the older door system there are wires which are not used any more.
Shouldn’t it be possible to connect the Nuki Opener with the opener actor directly at the door?
Hi! A photo of the momentane wiring please, then helping is a lot easier!
Sorry, but I cannot attach any photos. I get a message that new users can’t attach any items.
I just thought it must be able to trigger the opener directly. But ring to open won’t work this way.
Hi there,
so I’ve read through this tread but am a bit confused now:
Sorry for the potential repeating questions but there are too many partial instructions for me to understand the big picture 
Hi! Yes you can trigger it directly, the configuration of the wires with generic analogue is, Blue&Purple (Blue is GND and Purple is Opening) opener wires is opening circuit, and yellow&green (yellow is ring signal in opener and green is ring signal out) opener wires is the ring circuit.
Hi! I don’t really see if this is digital or analogue!? So please do this test to find it out, - Take a short wire and take off some insulation on both ends, now hold one end to a screw with a wire and with the other end you touch on the next screw (with a wire connected), when now the opening mechanism goes active you know its analogue, and you have also found the necessary screws for opening (so notice it), when the opening mechanism doesn’t go active then try the next screw, - do this with all screws (with a wire connected) and all constellations, until you found the two right screws for opening, where the opening mechanism goes active, every time you connect these two screws with the short wire. Write me here when done.
The test didn’t work. It is safe a digital connection.
The X wires are the bus connection (2 coming from downstairs, 2 going to the next apartment). The two R wires are connected to the ring button at the apartment door.
I would very much appreciate some help for the setup of my BFT-200 with RSR-200.
Originally the door bell had all four ports (R, a, a & b) used. After installing the RSR-200 the same way everything is fine
Then I wired the Opener according to this instruction Elcom i2 Bus (BVM-100) - #26 by Thyraz and used these ports on the pcb to connect wires. During setup I set it as “generic / analoge” For whatever reason, the Opener won’t open the front door 
Troubleshooting done:
Any ideas what to do?
Here’s how it currently looks like
…and which connections I used for the solering.
Ok, then you have a hole other wiring system and configuration to do. Choose generic bus, and follow the steps in the app for wiring and configuration.
Hi! You wrote you chose generic analogue, but your system looks strongly like a digital system, so for it cannot work. Choose generic bus for a digital wiring scheme.
Hm, but a bit further up it was stated, to chose “generic / analogue” when using a RSR-200. Now I’m confused.
“Generic / Bus” doesn’t work with my current wiring. The Nuki app complains a lot about it not being set up correctly
// EDIT:
turns out the wiring/soldering wasn’t that good after all 
I re-did the wires connected to the pcb and now it works fine (I think) 
At least the configuration and first test seemed to be just fine.
