Hi! From where you grabbed the ring signal, from the wire in 7 or from the buzzer itself!?
@Rose_Languste It’s the regular Nuki wiring. Original cable that was in 7 it’s now in the clamp, Nuki yellow cable in the clamp as well, and Nuki green cable in 7.
Please try to grab the signal directly off the buzzer! Do the original bell wire back to 7, pull the red wire off of the pin under the buzzer and do it in the clamp, connect the green opener wire to this pin now and try again! There is not much missing for fully functional I think!
Hey @Rose_Languste
I figured out that the door commutation relay works measuring the current going through the system and the buzzer coil of the intercom plays an important role in absorbing a certain amount of power. If you exclude the buzzer from the circuit the power consumption changes and the relay doesn’t work properly anymore.
In fact if you don’t suppress the ring sound from the nuki app, everything works perfect and “ring to open” opens the correct door every time.
So right now I’m not suppressing the sound from the app, but I put a little piece of plastic in between the coil and the moving metal thingy of the buzzer so that current goes through the coil but the buzzer is not making any sound anymore. “Ring to open” works well now and when someone unknown rings the bell, the nuki opener makes its own sound from the little speaker, even though volume is a bit low.
I will probably experiment with adding a resistor in between the nuki clamp and number 10, so that when the buzzer is silenced by the opener and excluded from the circuit there is still enough power consumption for the commutation relay to work. I’ve been told that a 2W and 47 Ohm resistor should make the trick.
When I try I’ll report back.
Thanks for your help, it was really appreciated.
Yeah, was exactly thinking the same, a resistor should do the trick! I am glad we come to that point, and hope the ring suppression will work with the right resistor!
@Rose_Languste I’ll let you know if I try. Honestly I can also leave it as it is now, volume is just a bit low from the opener speaker, but otherwise it works perfect
Hello @Rose_Languste, I hope it’s okay to jump on this thread, I’m struggling to replace the Urmet 1130 and stumbled upon this thread.
In more detail I can’t identify which wire supplies what on the handset. Panel to phone, phone to panel, buzzer etc. I will attach a picture.
Thanks in advance.
