Ok! Then do the green back to 2, and take out the orange of 2, and do it in 1, and try again, please!
I’m sorry… I don’t understand but when I tried to do what you talking about on your first proposal :
“Please try this! Take the nuki clamp and do the red&yellow opener wires together in one port, take out the blue wire (what comes out of the wall) of 1 and do it in the second port of the clamp, now do the orange&green opener wire in 1, now do the black opener wire to 2 together with the white wire (what comes out of the wall) what is already there, unconnect the other opener wires and let them free, now reset the opener to factory settings, and do a fresh setup with generic bus!”
Nothing works. Like no power comes to my intercom. I have only power where my blank or blue wire from the wall are in 1 or 2 on my intercom. I don’t know what to say… yesterday everything you say to help me works a little…
damn Nuki Opener. Not so easy that they say.
Yeah, that’s the thing, when the wiring isn’t clear, you just can try through, until you are successful or not. The most hard thing for me is, to give the right hints from distance, without really knowing the system. You have the same intercom as I, what is a model extra build to replace existing intercoms, so for it’s analogue, digital, and hybrid intercom, what is very hard to say from distance, what to do. For example, - do you see the very much jumpers, all of them can replaced in several positions, to setup the intercom in any possible way, so for the issue can be a false placed jumper or several jumpers, and then there are many possible wiring schemes, and also you can combine the jumpers schemes and wiring schemes, for even wider range of compatibility! In short words, mostly your intercom can be setup to work 100% with the opener, but for me from distance, it’s the search for a needle in a haystack.
Edit: have you tried to switch the green and orange wires, as I wrote before?
none of what we test yestarday work. If my 2 cables out of the wall are not in the 1 or 2 position to my intercom, nothing append, like no powered… I wrote an email to nuki but their answer is chinese to me 
"Redo the original wiring of the intercom and connect only the blue and purple from the Opener according to the application instructions.
● In the next step, connect the _ red_ and _ yellow_ wire from the Opener and the current carrying wire from the bell to the clamp that came with your delivery. Then you connect the _ black wire_ of the Opener to the ground. The green wire of the Opener is connected to the bell instead of the current carrying wires."
What is the ground port ? What about the green wire ?
Its so complicated than I will send back all my stuff very soon.
Thanks again for taking time for me, I appreciate that! 
Yeah, the nuki recommendations, they are gold!-) The wiring they give you is an analogue, but yours is digital, or at least hybrid!?
Hi,
I tried again and again and finally I did this :
Line 1 of intercom has: cables as before Nuki + nuki blue + nuki yellow + nuki black + nuki green
Line 2 of intercom has: cables as before Nuki + nuki red + nuki orange + nuki purple
Nuki app → sounds → all disabled
Found the trick here : Help with Urmet 1133/14 - Discussion / Questions - Nuki Developers
Thank you again Rose Languste for all the time you spend with my problem 
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Oh great, thats cool! Have fun!
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Como quedaría finalmente el esquema del cableado para que funcione perfectamente?
this perhaps can help.
The 1133/15 can replace 1+n (2 wires) and 4+n (5 wire) analog phone.
n = neutral
Thus the 1133/15 gets 2 working modes then 2 connection diagrams.
for example :
I get a 1133/15 to replace an old Acet 702 (2 wires).
Then I set the working mode 2 wires.
Then I use the 2 wires connection diagram.
see the doc of the Urmet 1133/15
4+n SYSTEMS (DEFAULT CONFIGURATION)
Put the jumper JPC on position “+”.
For 4+n (5 wires audio) systems, put all the jumpers JP1, JP2, JP3, JP4 and JP5 in position “5” (standard
configuration).
In case of traditional audio signals (carbon microphone), leave the trimmers MIC and SPK in default position
( MIC rotated completely clockwise, SPK rotated completely anticlockwise). In case of electronic speech
signal (micro-electret), rotate all the trimmer SPK clockwise.
1+n SYSTEMS
Put the jumper JPC in “+” position.
For 1+n (2 wires) systems, put all the jumpers JP1, JP2, JP3, JP4 and JP5 in position “2”.
Rotate all the trimmer SPK clockwise.
Rotate the trimmer MIC at about central stroke position.
CALL BY BUZZER (DEFAULT CONFIGURATION)
Put the jumper JPA in position “R”.
ELECTRONIC CALL BY HANDSET LOUDSPEAKER
Put the jumper JPA in position “E”.
Now how to connect the nuki opener ?
Determine what is the working mode of the 1133/15.
in Nuki app select a 2 or 5 wire device to know how to connect the nuki opener.
Dear Rose,
I’m contacting you as I see that you are an expert on the Urmet intercom model 3311/15. I hope you can help me !
To summarise, I connected all the Nuki coloured cables to the port of the intercom, but as soon I connect the Nuki cables to the Opener, the door downstairs keeps receiving an endless “opening” signal. Do you have any idea of what’s causing the problem?
I closely followed the instructions from Nuki to connect the Nuki coloured cables to the intercom port (see picture below before and after the Nuki cables):
Blue cable : 9
Purple and black: 6
Orange: 2
Red: 1
Green: CA
Yellow: inserted into the Nuki clamp.
I did not touch the original intercom cables, except the one that was in the CA hole, which is now in the other hole of the Nuki clamp, as instructed in the Nuki guidelines.
Additional info:
- I do not have a Nuki bridge.
- I repeated the installation three times with always the same outcome.
- I sent an email to the Nuki support five days ago but they have not replied yet
Thank you in advance for your help!
Nuki setup:
Initial setup:
Best,
Daniele
Hi! What intercom have you chosen in the app?
Hi Rose,
Thanks for your help!
I selected my intercom: Urmet 3311/15.
The selection seems correct as the app then refers to the same series of numbers/letters that I can see in the port of my intercom: (9, 10, 6, 2, CA, 1)
The problem seems related to the cables in 9 (the original cables and the Nuki blue cable): as soon as I insert the Nuki blue cable into 9, the door downstairs starts receiving the endless opening signal… 
Thanks,
Daniele
Your intercom is a 1133-014 and not 3311-15, - look at the right down corner of the motherboard, there you can see it.
Hi Rose,
Thanks a lot. I was looking at the wrong code… 
Model 1133-014 is not in the list of Nuki supported devices, I see in the list models 1133-1, 1133-10, 1133-12, but not 1133-014.
Does it mean that my intercom is not compatible at all with the Opener? 
Thanks once again for your help.
Best,
Daniele
Normally yes, because your intercom is a Hybrid-Intercom, for replacing existing broken intercoms, and so for, you can really configure it to every system, but you have to be an electrician, to know how, - BUT maybe you are lucky, - I had the same intercom in the past, and got it to work with the opener, - so I have to search for my old pictures and notes for it, and will get back to you here in about an hour, and let you know, what to do. Until then.
Hi Rose,
Thank you! This is fantastic and give me some hope!
Looking forward to your feedback.
Best,
Daniele
Hi! Sorry has taken longer than expected! Please try this, - Orange opener wire to 1 (together with the wire what is originally there), Red opener wire in 2 (together with the wire what is originally there), Black&Purple opener wire to 10 (together with the wires what are originally there), Blue opener wire in 9 (together with the wire what is originally there), then take out the wire what is originally in CA and put it in the clamp together with the Yellow opener wire, and put the green opener wire in CA, finished. Now set back the opener to factory settings, and do a fresh setup, and choose generic analogue as intercom model in the app. Let me know, how it goes.
Hi Rose,
Thanks once again for your help. So appreciated!
I tried your setup (see photo) but got exactly the same result. I factory reset the Opener, set “generic analog” in the Nuki app and connected the wires to the port of the intercom as you suggested. However, as soon as I connect the Opener to the wires, the door starts opening endlessly 
Is it possible that there is a problem with the Open firmware? Or do I simply have to accept that my intercom is not compatible? Any other options?
Thank you ! 
Daniele
Hi! I am sorry, anyhow I got no notification about your answer!? There are a few things left what we can try! At first we have to clarify the pin-configuration, anf for this do that, - Take out all opener wires, and connect the intercom like it was originally, - Now take a short isolated wire, and take off some of the isolation on both ends, - now hold one side on one of the screws, and the other end to a other screw, and do this until you find the two screws, where the door opening mechanism goes active, when you connect these two screws with the wire. Get back here when done, and I give you the next steps.
Hi Rose,
Thanks a lot for this additional effort!
I did what you instructed and found something quite strange. I set the intercom like it was originally (see picture). Then, when I hold one side of the short isolated wire to screw 9 the door opening mechanism goes active as soon as I hold the other side of this wire to all the other screws except for screw 10. How is it possible? 
FYI - I finally received support from Nuki. They told me to try with the configuration for Urmet model 3311/1, but I get the endless opening signal also in this case
i feel a bit lost !