Motor block Ox01


I’m desperate!!!
We have had Nuki on our doorstep for 2 years now and have been very satisfied until now for a little over a month. Every day we have problems always the error code 0x01 moter blocket but nothing is blocked at all. If I try a 2nd 3rd time, the door will just open. Even if I have the door open and I press open, everything works just fine. It’s always random I can’t put a time or system on it. I have rechargeable batteries and I pressed there 7x so that you can see the status or the like, I have already recharged it, recalibrated but immediately after the calibration at the first x try immediately error code 0x01 I have had it for 2 weeks back to your support but no proper answer.
I already contacted your support but with all due respect, the help there is ridiculous. She asked if I mounted the nuki on the inside of the door


Ik ben ten einde raad!!!
Wij hebben nu al 2 jaar Nuki op de deur en zeer tevreden geweest tot nu een kleine maand. Elke dag hebben we problemen altijd de fout code 0x01 moter blocket, maar er is helemaal niets geblokkeerd. Als ik een 2e 3e maal probeer gaat de deur wel gewoon open.Ook als ik de door open heb staan en ik druk door open werkt alles gewoon goed. Het is altijd random ik kan er geen tijd of systeem op plaatsen. Ik heb oplaadbare batterijen en daar heb ik dan 7x gedrukt zodat je de status of dergelijke kan zien, ik heb deze ook al opnieuw opgeladen, opnieuw gekalibreerd maar meteen na de kalibratie bij de eerste x proberen meteen fout code 0x01 ik heb die al 2 weken terug mailt naar jullie support maar geen enkel deftig antwoord.
Ik heb jullie support al gecontacteerd maar met alle respect, de hulp daar is belachelijk. Ze vroeg of ik de nuki wel aan de binnekant van de deur heb gemonteerd :sweat_smile:
Ik hoop hier wel wat hulp te krijgen. :pray:t2::pray:t2:

1 Like

Have you tried to fully reset it, and I don’t mean from within the app, I mean the procedure, where you have to touch the big button on the lock and to do a few other steps!?

hello, thanks in advance for your help! yes, i did this. As I have now once again charged all batteries to 100% recalibrated. Just like I all did before. The weird thing is, it happens so randomly. Sometimes the door opens 6 times correctly. and then again not, you hear that the lock tries but just doesn’t have enough power.


My lock Version 1 does this from time to time, and after it, it tries to calibrate itself, with very strange behaviour, it locks two times until it goes not further anymore, and gives then again a error out, that it is blocked, - but it’s normal that after locking two times (720°) that it cant go further, and should actually turn back then two times for calibrating the unlocking, what should end in a normal successful calibration, but no, I have to start a new calibration manually, for get it to work again!? I noticed, when starting a calibration manually, the lock always calibrates the unlocking first, and the locking second, but when the issue appeared and it tries to calibrate itself, it does the locking first, what ends in a error again!?

We have a big wooden entry door. In winter, when temperatures are lower, the key turning is stiffer than in the summer . I can hear that the Nuki motor tries harder and I also feel that clearly when I open manually with a key.
So I adjust the latch of the door every winter, so that it moves better, and in spring I change it back once the door locks too loose due to increasing temperature.
Could you try that?

Smart Lock 1.0 works differently in this regard than 2.0:
1.0 uses an absolute positioning. After a motor blocked it will try to do a position run to fully locked position. If the learned fully blocked end position is not reached it will become uncalibrated and require recalibration.
2.0 (& 3.0) uses a relative positioning. After a motor blocked it will try to do a position run to fully locked position and it will tread every end position as fully locked. Thus it never requires a recalibration even if it misses the end position by a little margin.


Motor blocked can also happen when one out of the 4 batteries is defective. i.e. everything looks fine when at rest (and thus the batteries appear fully charged), but when the motor starts to turn they break down and cause the Smart Lock to stop. You might try to change the accumulators instead of recharging them or test if the problem also appears with (new) batteries.


Hello! But thats the thing, when Version1 has a motor blocked situation you wrote “After a motor blocked it will try to do a position run to fully locked position. If the learned fully blocked end position is not reached it will become uncalibrated and require recalibration.”, but it reaches the fully blocked position, but turns then even further (what just is possible with much strength for a few centimeters), so long that there is no more going further, and then a blocked error comes again, - shortly, it runs above the before saved position for fully locked!? Thanks!

This I can fully confirm, I also had always issues with locking/unlocking with batteries, but since I use the original nuki accu packs, this issue is very rare now!?

Yes, this is what the position run does. Close fully until the motor blocks (“auf Anschlag fahren”). But when the motor blocks earlier than the position that was stored during the last calibration it becomes uncalibrated.

E.g. if you have a door where the cylinder closes further when the door is open than when the door is closed it can lead to a scenario where a position run ends in an uncalibrated state. In this case it’s better to calibrate the Smart Lock with the door closed.

I see, thanks for the clarification!

I now have new batteries from this morning, (not rechargeable) but it’s just worse than before :frowning:

Did you insert the new batteries with the door being open or closed? As it’s unclear if you have a SL1 or 2, it should be better to do that when the door is closed so that the endpoints are correctly set, if I understand above communication right.

You need to take the screenshot from the battery screen right after a motor blocked error.

3.2A max current with batteries down to 3.8V and 148 degrees movement looks like a classic unlatch command coming from unlocked position with good batteries (= the last command in your activity log).

It could be mehanical problem in your door that has nothing with nuki.
If I were you I would dissasemble cilinder from the door and check visually and how it turns, if there any obstacle is there already, and also oil cilinder inside by silicon oil, other mehanics inside of door by proper ‘fat’…

the door is brand new, it is installed vertically. I would be surprised if a new door had to be oiled right away.

1 Like

Thanks for your help! when I get an error code 0x01 again, I immediately check the battery status, and then post it here.

It doesn’t seems like a battery problem more like a low voltage problem. I had this problems from time to time from 76% charge, than I replaced batteries and it’s all good, even when yesterday I thought it would jam again (very slow start and movement) it somehow managed to close the door on 360 without any errors, so I assume that could be low voltage problem. I have an idea to connect lock to 7V and 3A power supply to see how it would work, just asked @Juergen if it’s the maximum possible parameters for lock electronics, as soon when he answer me I would start some tests