In cases when mounting plate B needs to be attached to the round rosette there is not enough surface area to hold the lock firmly in place. With the time it is going to fall off.
It is quite common in Germany to have the rosettes used on the doors and they are all fixed the same way with two bolts going through the door. If the holes were available by defaul on plate B it would mean that the lock can be mounted directy on the door with a much better hold than using the standard sticker.
Updating the plate with additional standard holes for rosette replacement would create a solid option to mount the lock without additionally drilling the door.
Examples
As shown in the picture below but without additional filing and drilling.
Same Feature Request here; as of today I have installed my very first Nuki and the Gap etc. with the Mounting Plate A is looking a bit weird and seems to be unnecessary.
For (initially) testing + photo taking purpose I have removed the rosette and screws completly today.
Very much to my surprise, I was able to use the rosette screws even nearly flat directly on the wood-door. After that I have shortend the Nuki Universal Cylinder on the inside and et voila, I was able to mount the SL Ultra perfectly AND and that was crucial to me, I only have an very very very small cut visible under the SL.
With that new Setup in place, the SL Ultra is an 10/10 for me!
(Only thing which I have to talk about with the support is, that the Ultra is a bit “squeaky” when turning the lock)
Hi Alexey, I printed ur mounting plate for the Nuki Ultra Lock. Unfortunately my screws are a little bigger and dont fit in the screw holes, so the plate dosen fit perfectly on ur Print. The other Thing ist that i had to use a second Plate to double the Space because me door is in between too sizes of that nuki cylinder. Could u maybe upload that files in STL format so i can do a remake fitting for my door? I cant open that STEP format in my editting software. Or maybe u would be so kind to change the bottom of that print to double the thickness and do a litte screw outage of about 10 mm in bothe screeholes
My thoughts on solving this problem (that do not result in a less secure solution due to „outside Rosette can be ripped off way easier, because the inner rosette was replaced with a 3D printed plate“):
Remove the inner rosette and the screws that link the inner with the outer rosette
AND and that was crucial to me, I only have an very very very small cut visible under the SL.
