Nuki Opener - Golmar T-810 - should work but doesnt

Normally I don’t support reposting the same topic, so apologies if this seems so to be the case.
But I’m the new and proud owner of the Nuki Opener (black).
I already own Nuki Smart Lock 3.0 and Bridge (both white).

After installing the wires of the Nuki Opener with my Golmar T-810, unfortunately opening the main door doesn’t seem to work. The only thing I have noticed after installation is that voice/volume has lowered and the buzz sound is replaced with only one of a few times click sound.

Possible cause
To me, this seems as if the power coming from the intercom now is somewhat decreased.
This shouldn’t be the case since Nuki Opener draws its power from the AAA batteries, right?

what have I done so far?

  1. Removed the Nuki Opener and everything seemed back fine
  2. Again installed Nuki Opener, this time with a WAGO splicing connector, same results.


7: Removed the [Golmar-Orange] wire and put it together with (NUKI YELLOW) in the clamp.
(Nuki-Yellow 1st port — Golmar-Orange in 2nd port)
0: Nothing
3: Added Nuki-Black/Purple to the Golmar-Blue
10: Added Nuk-Red to the Golmar-Green
5: Added Nuki-Orange to the Golmar-Yellow
P1: Added Nuki-Blue to the Golmar-RED (C2 position)

The Golmar T810 is supported, however so should any analog intercom system.
Since it only takes a push button to short the circuit and open the front door.

I’ve read in how-to-pdf for generic intercom, that there are two different types of installations, one is suppressed and not-suppressed. what is the difference? If I look at my wiring I should have a suppressed intercom system.


Why doesn’t my Opener work with my setup?
What is the difference between a doorbell suppressed and not suppressed?
Ultimatly what wire of the NUKI Opener should be connected to P1 and the black wire in C2 position for the NUKI Opener to short-circuit the connection. (aside from other functionalities the Opener offers)

The only possible solution what I can imagine is that the polarity is shifted between the red and black wire (P1) from the previous owner. However I don’t know how this would affect NUKI OPENER?

Found a solution, C1 [GOLMAR-RED] on the PCB, should be connected to the C1 (below right side), it was connected in the P1 spot. GOLMAR-BLACK then connects to the P1 spot, connecting to NUKI BLUE