Golmar Plus intercom system support

Hello,
So if I have understand well the instructions, the installation shall be something like the following:


Notice than black cable is connected to the shield of the coaxial.

Can some confirm it?

I hope that the photo also can help to someone.

Regards

2 Likes

It doesn’t work stable

Hi! I tried configuring my new Nuki Opener with my Golmar T-540 Plus SE using the wiring on this post.

I went through the setup process, but when the wizard tried opening the door it did not work.

Is there anything else I can do? Anyone got it working with T-540 Plus SE?

I tried again yesterday, and now it is working without any changes. I do not know what happened the first time.

Anyway, it is working now, thanks!

1 Like

Hi George, I am facing the same issue but with Platea Uno. Do you thing that the same diagram work for me?
20220915_090216

1 Like

Hello Guys,

I managed to buy the Golmar T540 plus to replace the Platea Uno screen. I followed all the steps. Nuki was playing (unstable eg ring to open not working) and then I realized all the screens in the other apartments were not working. We called a technician and he found out that when the opener is plugged in then the monitors have no power. Any idea what is going on?

1 Like

It can works with my Tekna Plus?

Thank you in advance

Wich model do you have?

Hello George,

I have a Golmar TEKNA-HF GTWIN monitor but they are no longer sold. Do you know if it is still possible to buy them (in the Netherlands)?

If not, do you know if other devices made by Golmar might be compatible (without needing to remove any of the other TEKNA-HF GTWIN monitors in the other apartments)?

With kind regards,
Jelle

Hey @Georg_S

I’ve been referred here by CS.

What have you figured out about Golmar’s Plus system in regards to the Data and Audio wire?
Any info about the protocol?

I’ve gotten about as far as figuring out it’s 2600 Baud 9-bit UART on the data line that seems to use Multidrop Bus as a base system or something akin to it

Hope to learn more :slight_smile:

Hi Dimitris! I have also the Golmar platea uno
Could you finally fix it? I’m stuck right now…
Could someone help me?

While waiting for a better solution, I’ve soldered two wires to the button that opens the door and connected it to a Shelly 1. This way, I can open the door remotely or even by voice.

Mil gracias por fin alguien que lo pone de una manera sencilla

Cómo lo has conseguido? Me podrias hacer cuatro pinceladas? Porque barajo hacer esa opción

Hola, pensaba que tenía fotos pero no las encuentro. No es complicado, pero implica desmontar todo el aparato para llegar a la placa, hay que soldar dos cables justo en el botón que acciona la puerta, ahí conectas un Shelly 1 (contacto seco sin voltage).

Alguien lo ha probado con un Golmar shiner-plus?

Intermittent Tonality Issue with Nuki Opener on Golmar Tekna V2 Plus (Bus System) – Could a Resistor Help?

Hi everyone,

I’ve completed the setup of my Nuki Opener with the Golmar Tekna V2 Plus intercom (bus-type system) in my apartment complex, using the Nuki Bridge. The wiring appears correct (I’ve attached pre-Nuki and post-setup wiring photos), but I’m experiencing some instability with the system’s functionality.

Firmware version : 1.10.1

Issue:

-80% of the time, when a user presses the button at the main entrance, everything works fine: the tonality is normal, a call is made to the intercom, and the door opens.
-The other 20% of the time, the tonality is very quick, and while the Nuki Opener seems to receive a signal, the intercom does not seem to enter the correct state to open the door.

Questions:

  1. I’m considering placing an 82 Ohm, 0.5W resistor on the + line to see if it might improve the system’s stability. Has anyone encountered similar issues with tonality or responsiveness, and would adding a resistor help stabilize the signal in this type of bus system?
  2. Could someone guide me on how to use a multimeter to diagnose the issue? Specifically, what voltage values should I be expecting pre- and post-resistor on the + and - lines? Also, what are the acceptable voltage ranges that the Nuki Opener can support?

I’ve attached photos of my wiring setup (pre and post Nuki Opener installation) for reference. Any guidance or suggestions would be greatly appreciated! (cc @Georg_S)